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adjoining runs. A variation of the concrete -block approach is to cover the surface of the <br />• demising wall with ceramic tile. This technique combines the durability of a concrete <br />wall with a dressier finish. To ensure a well -finished look, trim and bullnose pieces <br />should be used at all comers, top edges, and the base of the wall. <br />Another way to use ceramic tile on a concrete -block substrate is to use glazed concrete <br />block, in which a heavy ceramic glazing is integrally attached to an ordinary concrete <br />block through a sophisticated firing process. Although expensive, the finished product <br />is quite durable and easy to clean. Glass block also works well in run enclosures to <br />create a more friendly environment. Cleaning characteristics are similar to glazed <br />block. <br />Modular Runs - Generally, modular runs consist of an aluminum or stainless -steel frame <br />with solid in -fill or cage "rod" in -fill panels. The metal frame and in -fill system usually <br />looks nicer than a concrete -block run. The panels can vary in color and configuration to <br />provide visual variety. The system easily combines with raised -flooring systems to keep <br />dogs off the run floor. Care must be taken during installation to seal hidden surfaces. <br />Panelized Kennel Fencing - One of the oldest and most -effective methods, the <br />panelized fencing system, combines a smooth chain link with a galvanized metal frame <br />that is smaller than that commonly found in chain -link cyclone fencing. Unlike typical <br />chain link, the fabric of the panelized system doesn't have any burrs, because the <br />material is electro-galvanized, not hot -dipped. Furthermore, dogs can't climb it as easily <br />as chain link, because the gauge, or thickness, of the wire is smaller and the spacing of <br />• the mesh tighter. Finally, the fabric is laced to the framework more tightly than chain <br />link and is flush -welded without hub connections, which prevents dogs from getting <br />caught on the edges. Fencing can be more difficult to clean than solid walls. <br />Drainage systems <br />The most contentious aspect of constructing a dog run is likely to be the drainage <br />system. An effective system makes the runs easy to clean, using minimum staff time <br />and effort. Possibilities include: <br />Single Drains in Each Run - This is the simplest solution and, in shelters with fewer <br />than a dozen runs, is often the least expensive. Generally, you set the drain in the <br />center of the run at the back and slope the floor a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot to the <br />drain. <br />Unless you're using a raised -flooring system, consider installing grates or covers over <br />the drains to keep dogs from stepping into them. This specification requires that your <br />staff pick up any solid waste before washing down the run. <br />A Trench Drain Behind the Run - One of the more recent innovations locates the two - <br />foot wide trench drain, equipped with a flushing floor drain, behind the runs. All runs <br />drain into this trench. For cleaning, your staff accesses the trench through the end <br />runs in the bank of cages. Generally, no more than ten runs should face on a trench. <br />40 The flushing floor drain in the trench presents a unique advantage. A small water line <br />is stubbed into the floor drain. When solid wastes need to be washed down the <br />drain, you simply open a valve. Although the floor drain can be expensive, it is an <br />3 <br />